10 useful days with 2/3 days possible in case of bad weather. We then define our program of ascent. As an illustration, the ascent schedule may look like this:
D15: Rest at base camp (5,350 m) and definition of approach tactics.
D16: Ascent to altitude camp 1 (Altitude Camp 1 = AC1) at 6,100 meters. We go up for 2 to 3 hours a moraine which leads to the foot of the corridor of the West Col. The ascent of the corridor begins with easy mixed equipment equipped with fixed ropes. Then it's a snow slope at 40° to the pass and always equipped with fixed ropes.
Number of hours of walking: 2 to 3 hours from BC to AC1
Elevation : + 750 m – Altitude at the end of the day: 6,100 m
D17: Return to base camp. Rest at base camp (5,350 m).
Number of hours of walking : 1 to 2 hours return
Elevation : - 750 m – Altitude at the end of the day: 5,350 m
D18: Rest at base camp (5,350 m).
Altitude at the end of the day : 5,350 m
D19: Rest at base camp (5,350 m).
Altitude at the end of the day : 5,350 m
D20: Climb to altitude camp 1 at 6,100 meters and night in a tent at AC1. See description of day 16.
Number of hours of walking : 2 to 3 hours from BC to AC1
Elevation : + 750 m – Altitude at the end of the day: 6,100 m
D21: Climb to altitude camp 2 at 6,500 meters and night in a tent at AC2. From the AC1, we start on a flat 300m and a slight slope that skirts a few crevasses. You then come out on another slope that is still slightly inclined for about 200 m in height. Then we arrive on a large plateau where we set up camp at 6,500 m. From here we see practically the entire route up to the summit ridge and the summit.
Number of hours of operation : 4 hours from AC1 to AC2
Elevation : + 400 m – Altitude at the end of the day: 6,500 m
D22: Ascent of the summit of Baruntse at 7,129 meters. Initially a flat 150 m then a first slope at 30° which leads to a “false pass”. Then you climb towards a bergschrund which you bypass to the left then a new slope for 200 m then a new bergschrund. We then climb the beginning of the summit ridge very exposed to the wind. A succession of jumps leads us on the last part of the ridge to the summit. After congratulating each other, we go back down to spend the night at AC1 or AC2.
Number of hours of walking : 9 to 10 hours from AC2 to the summit then back to AC2 or AC1 to spend the night
Elevation : + 630 m / - 630 m (AC2) or - 1,030 m (AC1) – End of day altitude: 6,500 m (AC2) or 6,100 m (AC1)
D23 – 26: return to base camp (5,350 m), dismantling of the camp and two to three buffer days for the weather window.
Number of hours of walking : 3 to 4 hours from AC2 and 1 to 2 hours from AC1
Elevation : - 630 m (AC2) or - 1,030 m (AC1) – End of day altitude: 5,350 m
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