Safety has always been our top priority at Alpinist. Our team of expert guides is dedicated to leading a fun and successful climb while ensuring safety remains uncompromised. We plan carefully, considering daily weather forecasts and paying diligent attention as we venture into high altitudes. Throughout the journey, we carry comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and reliable radio and satellite communication gear.
High Altitude Climbing Advice from Subash Gurung
Subash Gurung, an experienced high mountain guide who has climbed Everest solo, shares his advice:
Climbing at high altitudes affects everyone differently, both physically and mentally. Each person has their limit where it becomes really tough. This stage is painful but not impossible to overcome. Once you get past it, things improve, and you can understand your body's ability to adapt. This challenging phase can start at 6000 meters or even during the approach trek.
There are strict rules for high-altitude climbing, and breaking them can be very dangerous. There's a big difference between quickly climbing to 8000 meters and coming back down right away versus staying there for 12 or 24 hours.
At 8000 meters, serious problems begin. You might lose sleep, lose your appetite, feel apathetic, and even experience hallucinations.
In short, above 8000 meters, your body starts to shut down. For beginners, it's crucial to follow a few basic rules. The first few days at base camp help you gauge your readiness. Usually, after the third day, you start feeling better. Deciding the stages of your climb depends on the usual camp locations or the terrain. Generally, if you can sleep at 6500 meters without headaches, you're ready to go higher. It's wise to make two trips to 7000/7500 meters to test your limits. During these trips, staying hydrated is essential. Then, spend a night at around 7500 meters, even if it's uncomfortable, before attempting the summit at 8000 meters. If the summit is higher, try to sleep at 8000 meters.
Beyond 8500 meters, you need to rely more on your brain than your muscles. Your mind must stay alert to decide when to descend. If you can't make that decision, it's deadly. Climbing to 8000 meters in good conditions is tough, but with bad weather, it becomes a nightmare.
General Precautions for High Altitude Climbing:
1. Stay warm, but not too hot.
2. Always cover your head.
3. Hydrate regularly, even in bad weather.
4. Have at least one hot snack daily.
5. During the trek, avoid walking bare-chested.
6. At high altitudes, watch out for each other and don’t fall asleep at the same time.
7. Never descend alone.
8. Set personal limits and be aware of warning signs like mirages, sleepiness, and loss of appetite.
9. Don’t hesitate to turn back, regardless of external pressures.
10. Accept that it’s okay to give up; the mountains will still be there.
To climb at high altitudes, you need meticulous preparation, proper acclimatization, constant mutual monitoring, intellectual alertness, and immediate retreat in case of weakness, doubt, or danger.
Expedition Leader
Our expedition leaders are highly experienced in high-altitude challenges, forming a close-knit and respected community. The leader for this trip hasn't been chosen yet but will be soon. They excel in group management, pacing, and altitude progression, ensuring the best chances of success.
Your Private Guide
Each participant gets a dedicated high-altitude Sherpa for crucial moments, especially the summit push. Our Sherpas are experienced, having led multiple 8,000-meter expeditions. Generally English-speaking, they assist with key tasks and camp setups. A summit bonus, paid in cash, is due once you leave the last camp for the summit. If the climb is halted before this, tipping is optional. Our team includes Sherpas from various Nepalese ethnic groups.
Team and Logistics
Our well-developed team addresses both technical supervision and equipment carrying, essential for each participant's success. With over 10 years of refinement, our system assigns specific tasks and statuses.
Base Camp: Managed by a Base Camp Manager and kitchen team, with a cook at Camp 2.
Porters: Set up base camp and kitchen.
High Altitude Sherpas: Set up high-altitude camps and transport equipment from base camp.
Participants carry personal belongings and high-altitude food (10-12 kg). Collective equipment is handled by the Nepalese team. Additional local skills, an experienced weather router, and a high-altitude specialist doctor will support as needed.
unforeseeable reasons
For unforeseeable reasons at this stage, including weather but also fitness or lack of fitness of the participants, Your guide may adjust or interrupt the program for safety reasons, based on weather or participant fitness. The guide's decisions are final.
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